By By Stan Torgeson / wine columnist
Nov. 6, 2002
There are two yardsticks by which I measure a restaurant. One is certainly the food, its look, its presentation, its price and, of course, its taste.
The other is its wine list. How extensive is it? Does it have a wide variety of wines suitable for every dish? And, as with the food, the prices charged by the glass or the bottle.
To this date there are some nice Meridian restaurants as far as food is concerned. But there are none with wine lists worthy of note, or at least there won't be until the new Weidmann's opens under the direction of Willie McGehee, chef and manager, and as an offshoot of Nick's Restaurant in Jackson.
Nick Apostle is very big into wine and McGehee has told me the same policy will be in effect here. The selection will be great but the wine list I saw from Nick's was a bit pricey. Maybe Willie will decide there are fewer expense account customers available in our city.
But Nick's is one of the restaurants recognized by Wine Spectator magazine as worthy of their Award of Excellence. There are only 10 in the state of Mississippi. Phillip M's at the Silver Star in Philadelphia is another.
The Award of Excellence recognizes restaurants that provide a sound wine program for their customers whether a modest 80-selection list or a list with several hundred choices.
Here is the list of Mississippi restaurants that qualify, according to the Spectator.
Nick's and Phillip M's already have been mentioned. The other eight are Bravo in Highland Village in Jackson, City Grocery on the Square in Oxford, Dunleith Plantation in Natchez, Jack Binion's Steak House in Robinsonville, The Parker House Restaurant in Ridgeland, Purple Parrot Cafe in Hattiesburg, Shapley's Restaurant in Ridgeland and Yasmin's Asian Restaurant in Robinsonville.
That's it. We should mention there are two categories even higher up the magazine's scale, the Grand Award which means the best of the best reserved for restaurants "offering an unparalleled wine experience" and the Best of the Award of Excellence for restaurants that take their wine programs "a step above the norm."
None of the Mississippi restaurants qualified for the upper tiers.
For those of you who travel to Alabama here are some of their best. So many local people own or rent condos down at Gulf Shores or Perdido we think we should call the Fairhope Inn and Restaurant to your attention. It's on Church Street in Fairhope.
That same trip takes you through Mobile, and Ruth's Chris Steakhouse on Airport Boulevard qualified. Ruth's Chris is a franchise, and if you never had dinner at any one of their establishments you have missed a truly great experience. I've never had a better fillet anywhere, including my own kitchen.
To you who spend time in Birmingham, here's their list: Bottega, Highland's Bar &Grill, Hot and Hot Fish Club, 195 Mizan Plaz and another Ruth's Chris. All have won the award.
As for New Orleans there are only two Grand Award winners. One is Brennan's, which has held the magazine's highest honor since 1981. The other is Emeril's in the French Quarter, which won it in 1999.
Emeril's Delmonico Restaurant and Bar on St. Charles Avenue has earned the second highest award, The Best of the Award of Excellence. The Grill Room in the Windsor also was given that recognition as was NOLA on Rue Saint Louis.
Notably missing are such big name restaurants such as Antoine's, Galatoire's, Arnaud's, Commander's Palace or Dickie Brennan's Steak House. They've got the reputation, but the Wine Spectator by leaving them off the list says their food and wine list is not as good as the public has been led to believe.
Tennessee has 29 restaurants honored, but only one Grand Award winner The Wild Boar Restaurant in Nashville. They have two designated Best of the Award of Excellence: Blackberry Farm in Walland and The Orangery in Knoxville.
If traveling is in your future and you're into the best for a special occasion, e-mail me at stant@strato.net and I'll be happy to provide you with the names of restaurants at your destination that have been recognized by the Wine Spectator for their greatness.
But remember there are 10 of them in Mississippi, one only 40 miles up the road. Let me add my personal endorsement to that. Phillip M's is as good as it gets. From the comments I've heard about special guest meals served at Weidmann's as warm-ups before their official opening, McGehee is going to do his best to give Phillip M's a run for its money. I'm savings my nickels to find out.